Tailored Construction

A tailored jacket is a true masterpiece of engineering and the ultimate status piece in a man’s wardrobe. Using geometric combinations of measurements is only part of how a tailored jacket comes to life. Obviously, a shoulder width, the coat length and the cut of the sleeve all influence the silhouette, but just as important in a jacket is how it is constructed. Traditionally, there have been two main schools of tailoring that are widely recognized as the starting point for many, one originating in Italy and the other from England.

The Italian method or style originates from the Neapolitan area where an unpadded, soft and natural shoulder is a widely used technique for the ateliers and tailor shops of the region. The chest is also soft and it is quite acceptable to be seen draping softly without heavy internal pieces keeping it from doing so. This school of tailoring has been widely popularized by modern taste and preference. Combined with trend for casualization and fabric technologies, the look is softer, more natural and can feel more accompanying to the body in its form and movement.

The English school is near what we label as traditional tailoring with a padded square shoulder that corrects the shape of the shoulder and chest. The componentry is more built up and uses layers of interlinings of different qualities and weights including a woven layer or “chest piece” that molds like a breastplate from the shoulder to the waist. London’s Saville Row is the home of the English technique where the tradition of tailoring has evolved over centuries and the line between uniform and civilian clothing for gentlemen has never been defined with most of Saville Row Tailors having origins connected to the military uniforms of officers.

 Between these two very traditional but very different techniques of tailoring lies the modern tailoring we see around the world with men’s brands adapting either or both in endless combinations and styles. At J.Hilburn, we currently offer three different constructions to choose between. Depending on preference, you can have STANDARD, SOFT or DECONSTRUCTED. The chart below is a simple way to understand the difference between the three. As a starting point in choosing a new sportcoat, this begins the journey of building your own and selecting collar options, pocket, linings, and button to enable a truly unique custom-made piece mirroring your personality and taste.