With the new season underway, I want to draw attention to some of our more hidden options currently available for throughout our collection, which may not be as well known as some of the more overt options, such as monogramming or thread colors. These are a series of options, some with an upcharge that goes into the construction of a custom-made piece and, therefore, may not be at first so apparent at first. The added value to comfort and wear-factor is, in my opinion, and in some cases, a must-have for a client to enjoy his J.Hilburn wardrobe, such as the comfort waistband in our pant program. Available as part of the order process in chino, shorts, and 5-pockets, you can choose the “Comfort” option under the waistband.
This waistband looks exactly like any other waistband with belt loops, button closure, etc., but its unique construction makes it give about 1”, which you can test yourself by pulling at the waistband horizontally. This comfort mechanism is created through special stretch interlining and a proprietary machine stitch that stretches slightly and then returns to the original measurement. The result is a unique comfort that men feel wearing these pants. Combined with a stretch fabric, any bending or sitting movement is unblocked from the usual waistband and gives and moves with the body. Imagine how many times you get up from a desk, sit at a table, or get in and out of a car. These are just a few examples of where the waistband comes into its own and makes all the difference in everyday wear.
The stiff placket in shirting was added earlier this year, less for comfort but more for look. The look being a front placket that is more supported than most, with a special interlining used in the top portion of the shirt placket. The effect is a collar that stands up a little more importantly and that tends to stay in place more when worn open, especially under a sportscoat. It adds a touch of Italian “sprezzatura,” which I personally like to see as a sign of fine tailoring and details that are much thought about and deliberated upon to create a touch of sartorial class.
Last week, after a last-minute delay, we launched a new interlining program in our knits available in select fabrics. This new program mirrors what is available in shirting with the same naming and effectiveness by selecting “Stiff/Interlining” in the drop-down menu at order entry. This gives the knit collar selected under polo style a much more formal look with a stiffer expression similar to a dress shirt and works nicely in some of our softer fabrics for those Clients looking for a less casual look to perhaps wear with a sportscoat.
You could add to our list perhaps a few more visible and exclusive shirt options, such as first button adjustment, for guys wanting a certain look when the first button is opened, resulting in a better appearance to the neckline of a shirt, perfect for guys with thicker necks. I have often talked about the different internal construction of our sportscoats, all of which give the wearer a different feeling and a slightly different look, but ultimately, all worked with internal componentry that is quite different in the making of one jacket to the next. As we continue to innovate, don’t be fooled by some of the gimmicks out there, such as adhesive plastics to straighten collars, elastic arm cuffs to shorten sleeves, or shorter hems to wear a shirt untucked, to mention just a few. These are all things that menswear experts know well, and technically, with the right partners, we can find solutions for within our custom-made know-how.
