It’s kind of funny how social media is not only listening but seemingly reading our thoughts. I had not but just finished a Tailored Talks session with some guidance to using our options to help our stylists show off their skills to clients, that I saw this on LinkedIn from Katie Cantrill, which I thought was super cool and exactly the perfect reason to pop that color! |
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I realize that not everyone is confident adding options with contrasts and pops, and nine times out of 10, it isn’t necessary; in fact, most guys appreciate the personal touches but in more subtle ways that are wearable yet differentiated. When working with sportscoats, I always look at the overall color and any contrast used in the yarn mixes that our wonderful mills work on to add depth and texture. This secondary color may be tonal, and I use that to select lining, piping, and contrast buttonhole options. The linings are particularly important, and often, stylists jump from solid to Novelty, which is on the very overt pattered end of choices; before that range is an intermediate range of linings of about 30+ “Fancy” linings that owe their design to classic menswear and high-end tailoring of Saville Row. These lining options often get overlooked but address universal menswear tastes for pattern and design. The subtlety and refinement speak clearly to my own taste with some of the pattern work inspired by neckwear motifs such as polka dots and mini geos. When using these, I love to add a ribbon piping, which is an insert we put between the lining and the facing. This placement is a great way to add a pop of color, if necessary, but I often use greys, blues, and creams as the satin material gives a touch of sheen and luxury that is more than enough in my own styling repertoire. |
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Our clients love the contrast buttonhole available on the lapel and/or the sleeve cuff when combined with the open-buttonhole option. When offering this to clients, I always prefer just the first of the four buttonholes on the sleeve, adding a detail that isn’t always noticed immediately. The buttonhole contrast, again, can be tonal to the sportscoat, offering a versatile option that’s not necessarily a pop of color. This flexibility allows stylists to play with different combinations, showcasing their skills and demonstrating that custom-made menswear goes beyond just the perfected fit and preference of our clients. |
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Shirting is another place where subtle contrast is an option that can add personality that isn’t always overt. In solid shirting, between button colors, buttonhole thread, and the button thread itself, there is a chance to add touches that can be either bold or subtle, depending on tastes. I personally don’t love the whole shirt with contrast thread, but I understand that some clients do, but I love playing with the 27 button colors we currently offer in shirting. I tend to find endless combinations, and sometimes I can’t decide which I prefer, so I encourage preparing two or three options for our clients. Contrast fabrics are another range of options we offer, and again, playing with the hidden details can be an excellent way to personalize a classic without becoming a caricature. The good news is that we have an outstanding shirt configurator that can help visualize even the most audacious of choices. In custom-made menswear, I have learned to embrace these bold preferences, if not always, to adopt them into my own personal wardrobe, though I may make an exception for an orange Porsche. |
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