The shirt jacket has been around for some time, and whilst I am not exactly sure of its origins, this style was worn in rural America as early as the thirties and forties—probably as an evolution of a heavy work shirt to wear over thermal knits in winter. Synonymous with Canadian lumberjacks in classic red buffalo check, it has become an iconic outdoor style this has evolved to the pages of men’s fashion magazines and blogs.
Marlon Brando wears a classic shirt jacket in On the Waterfront, 1954.
The return probably has something to do with the NYC Hipster aesthetic, which has adopted plaid as its signature pattern, pulling with it all the iconic plaid styles of shirts and shirt jackets. In rethinking for Fall 2021, I used the shirt jacket heritage to inspire the choices of Italian plaids from Reda.
With subtle melange colorations and a richness of color with a nod to country, the intention is for the shirt jacket to remain a hybrid piece that could substitute as a sportcoat for some occasions. I also love this piece’s workwear characteristics, which I thought could work really well with Ermenegildo Zegna Trofeo as a luxurious version of that denim look.
The fall collection has both plaid and solid options through these choices. The shirt collar and button front style, combined with a cuffed sleeve, are the stand-out characteristics signature to the shirt jacket. The shirt neck has a stand collar, which is slightly lower on the front neck when opting for the zip-front. In this construction, the band does not go all the way around the collar, but has what we call a “half-moon” in the back neck.
We are offering three front closure options for the shirt jacket: buttons, metal snaps and zip through. The metal snaps and the zip are modern takes on the original, which really brings the shirt jacket into 2021. These metallic options both add a more aggressive look to the front with our signature hardware color of brushed aluminum, and I never get tired of seeing this expensive finish on collection pieces.
With chest pocket options and lower side pocket options, you can decide how far you want to go with front details, knowing that all of them have been carefully selected and designed to work together, so there is no wrong or right way—just personal taste.
The hem options are three. First a straight hem with the option of shirt side vents, or the characteristic “shirt” hem with the longer curved front and back. Just to be clear, this latter option is not designed to tuck into a pant! We have lined all of the above with our poly tech fabric, which really gives a modern trim to this unique piece—again helping to reinvent the tradition and heritage of the shirt jacket.
I have spoken many times about layering outfits, and the shirt jacket adds a new piece for the Client to integrate into his J.Hilburn wardrobe. With a zip-neck knit or crew neck underneath, the shirt jacket looks both casual and refined, which is exactly the type of casual look our customers appreciate. Combine this with any 5-pocket pant or chino and you have a casual look perfect for weekends, social occasions, and in some cases, even business casual.
