A tailored sportcoat is the epitome of nonchalant style for men. With the smart cut of the jacket, the shoulder and waist are shaped uniformly, while the collar effortlessly frames the neckline and is enhanced by the under-layering choices of shirts and knits.
A sportcoat smartens up a man immediately, but without stiffening him up. When combined with more casual 5-pockets or denim, the effect of the sportcoat can be a modern expression of business casual with broad appeal, both as workplace wear or as social attire that’s perfect for weekend brunch or drinks with friends.
To achieve this clean, tailored silhouette, the process and engineering of a sportcoat is rather elaborate, even before you get to the choice of fabrics. Experience and specialization in manufacturing is absolutely of the essence when it comes to the sportcoat. The shoulder and collars are crafted with construction layers applied by hand, helped along by specialized stitching machinery, irons and steam.
The construction process also uses layers of the highest quality internal materials for the chest-piece, the collar taping, and of course the shoulder pad. These materials themselves are tested for performance and ability to mold the “roll” of the collar or the smoothness of the shoulder.
A multi-step process to create the front and shoulder is the first stage of the jacket’s construction. Once the pockets and linings are ready, the jacket moves to the next phase of construction, where specialists inset the sleeves to the exact line and specified tension. Once the sleeve and armhole unite precisely on each side, the jacket can be finished. The last phase includes several rounds of expert pressing and steaming to give the sportcoat its final appearance.
When choosing fabric for sportcoats that aren’t intended to be full suits, but rather separate pieces worn as elements of a coordinated wardrobe, I work mostly with our Italian mills. The mills provide updated seasonal collections of fabrics for me to review, and these fabrics—which come from the pure wool or blended side of the mills’ collections—are specifically designed for sportcoat use. The mills innovate with color, pattern and weave each season to develop a whole new range of choices.
I am always drawn to sportcoat fabrics that bring newness and opportunities for wardrobe updates each season, and I also look for colorations in particular that speak to the season and my inspiration. This season I was particularly drawn to a lot of the warm reds, golds, and olives inspired by the outdoors and a feeling of a country escape.
I also try to select a balance of patterns that go from bold and overt to subtle and minute, giving a range of choices that can speak to different personal tastes and needs for the season. From Reda to Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, and Zegna, I rely on my eye and experience to pull things I think you’ll love, while also connecting the dots to other parts of the collection. I think about which new casual pants could be worn with each sportcoat, and which new knit styles would look great as an updated collar underneath.
This season, I have shown sportcoats layered over tech vests in new seasonal colors, and I’m loving how this accentuates the outdoors feeling of the collection. This type of layering offers versatility for colder days, and I think it looks very current and stylish to connect outerwear to tailoring in such a warm and approachable way. This look is also available in our Windstopper option with the detachable double front. The Windstopper has been a nice add-on for sportcoats, and this season’s updated tech front options are perfect for guys looking for that vest front look without the bulk of two entire pieces layered over each other.
