This week the sudden news of Queen Elizabeth II’s death has shocked her family, the country and citizens of the world. As British myself, I was unaware how deeply significant and destabilizing this moment would be, as her family and nation mourns and we look toward a new King taking on a perhaps impossible task of walking in his mother’s shadow.
As the TV reports on every moment of the week’s ceremonies and services, it always amazes me how well we British are prepared for the marvelous pomp and ceremony these historic occasions call for. The Horse Guards, the military bands, the elaborate official costumes with polished brass buttons and decadent gold embroideries. I was really moved by the Signing Proclamation, with our new Sovereign wearing an impeccable traditional formal morning suit in black with a subtle grosgrain trim that reminded me of Victorian-era mourning clothing. Queen Victoria adopted black mourning dress after losing her beloved Albert, and with her symbolic black attire emerged certain fabrics like Serge and ottoman, which were dull and more modest-looking than the opulent velvets, satins and silks of the time.
The new King has always been a menswear icon, with impeccable personal style and taste rooted in his longstanding support of Savile Row in London—particularly Gieves & Hawkes and Anderson & Sheppard. He is known to prefer a deconstructed make and relaxed cut in suits, and he loves a double-breasted style with a low cut, which he has compared to his pajamas. I love the slight rumple of his shirt, the squeezed dimple of his tie and the softer shoulder of his jacket, all of which I see as nods toward a sartorial confidence I have always aspired to when styling.
The new King’s style, whilst rooted in tailoring, has always had a nonchalant ease that has long inspired editors and fashion titles around the world. For years he has been popping up on the fashion icon radar, though he seems to shrug it off, famously saying, “My style comes back into fashion every 25 years.” When working on our current Fall 2022 Collection, I used an archival image of a young Prince Charles as the center of one of my mood boards. The image is of Charles in post-polo attire, adjusting his boots on the back on a Land Rover. His deep black currant sweater and the rich inky blue of the Land Rover are, for me, timeless and yet incredibly modern notes that inspired much of this fall’s seasonal palette.
He has exceptional personal taste, and his home of Highgrove in the Cotswolds represents a working estate that he has transformed into a sustainable powerhouse, well before everyone was talking about organic gardens and green building materials. In fact, the new King’s early adoption of sustainability was met with scornful laughter at the time, but he has proven his critics wrong by paving the way for others to follow.
With the stage set and his every word and gesture currently covered by media around the world, I anticipate that the new era of Charles III will see his influence grow in numerous ways. Undoubtedly, I will continue to watch his wardrobe as King and happily accept his continued inspiration in menswear.
