To Wrinkle, or Not to Wrinkle?

There are generally two schools of thought when we speak of linen in menswear: to wrinkle or not to wrinkle? Some men hate that linen can be quite high maintenance, and others love the nonchalance of the rumpled look, and to be honest, quite impossible to deal with if you are from the “not the wrinkle” school of thought. That is, until recently, combined with performance finishes and woven with other refined fibers such as wool and silk, linen has seen a resurgence in summer tailoring thanks to this latest wave of technology coming from Italy and our excellent mill partners.

With its antibacterial and quick-drying properties, linen is actually one of the oldest fabrics known to man, with remnants found in Egyptian tombs, religious history, and European archeology that traces wild Flax (the linen seed) to over 30,000 years ago. The fiber has a fascinating history, with linen popularity spread across Europe through Irish production and then to England and Germany with the industrialization of weaving during the 18th and 19th Century. Linen was also an essential product of the American colonies and the “homespun movement,” which encouraged farmers to grow Flax for family clothing, and as global demand developed, linen became a global commodity. Today, cotton and synthetics have relegated linen to a less popular spot in the modern wardrobe, but this has only helped linen become more of a desirable luxury, used in high-end furnishings, bedding, and luxury apparel brands.

We offer linen shirting in both its pure form and blended with cotton in both solid and patterns. Our “Journey Linen” from Thomas Mason is a wrinkle-resistant finish that helps keep the smooth look of freshly pressed linen and has proven very popular year-round with our clients. I can’t think of a more summer item than a white linen shirt, and it rates as a summer go-to when I am in my home in Connecticut, with that perfect balance of style and understated luxury. We have added a few patterns for summer from Soktas, whose commitment to sustainable sourcing and production fits perfectly with linen, as another enormous appeal of linen is that the crops need less water and energy to grow successfully. The Soktas soft awning stripes in this quality have a feeling of the Riviera, and for those wanting more color, the fruity plaids are the perfect option.

In tailoring, pure 100% linen is particularly difficult to maintain, and so it becomes a niche for a true connoisseur who embraces the wrinkle with a carefree style. On the other hand, however, our Italian partners have developed summer wool weights blended with linen for both suits and sportscoats, which are the modern standard for the look of linen in menswear, helped by the easy recovery of high-twist refined wools. When most men are looking for “linen,” this is probably what they mean and has seen on the market from luxury men’s designer brands. Within the collection, we have qualities that suit every need and budget with summer weights in linen blends from Marzotto, Trabaldo Togna, Vitale Barberis Canonico, and Loro Piana. As we approach the end of spring into summer, plan your linen and linen blend orders before the demand is high, as we would hate to disappoint you when the heat of summer starts to kick in.